Drive up the hill behind Teuchitlán, a small town in Jalisco, and discover a uniquely mysterious wonder of ancient Mexico. After you hike up a trail from the car park you will come upon a truly spectacular site. If you are lucky and it is a clear day and there are not many tourists about you will find yourself lost in a remarkable world where the archaeological remains are hauntingly beautiful.
The Round Stepped Pyramids
If you have already seen some of Mexico’s ancient pyramids what you encounter at Los Guachimontones will certainly surprise you, for here the mounds or pyramids, are round and stepped. Their shape reflects and enhances their environment. Unlike the angular massive ruins elsewhere in Mexico these softened pyramids invite you to walk around and glance off to the surrounding hills and the lake in the distance. They seem less an intrusion of the man-made than their pre-Columbian cousins at Chichen Itza or Teotihuacan. Los Guachimontones is a magical place.
Teuchitlán Tradition
The fact that archaeologists are not absolutely certain what the circular mounds were for or how they functioned in the daily life of the people who dwelt in the buildings that surrounded them adds to the mystery. They are mute evidence of a society called the Teuchitlán Tradition that thrived between 200 and 400 AD. It is surmised that the mounds were topped by a pole which a priest would hold or climb as part of a ceremony honoring the wind God Ehecatl. But much of the history of this site is clouded in uncertainty. One is reminded of the enigma of the Stonehenge in England which is also circular and invites a similar kind of awe arising from its innate beauty.
A Purely Visual Experience
The good thing about visiting a site such as Los Guachimontones is that one is not driven to sort out the details of its history or contemplate the minutiae of the daily lives of those who lived here. Being told that not much is known about the Teuchitlán Tradition frees the mind and the eye to just dwell on the visual. You don’t need to interrupt the pleasure of seeing by referring to a guide book, nor do you really need to imagine what the community was like before it fell into ruin. The ruins themselves are enchanting enough on their own.
This site is a photographer’s dream. You cannot go wrong no matter where you point your camera.
The Museum
If for some reason you must find out more about the Teuchitlán Tradition visit the Museum of La Casa de Cultura Teuchitlán in the small community below the ruins. There you can view a model showing a reconstruction of Guachimontones and view an informative video presentation on Teuchitlán.
A new museum is being constructed at Los Guachimontones which is promised to be interactive and state of the art. One hopes that it will not detract from the magic of the site.
A visit to Los Guachimontones is most enjoyable as a purely sensual experience. There is something to be said for the expression “ignorance is bliss”. Before you clutter your mind with facts sometimes it is best to enjoy just what you see.
Guachimontones: unearthing a lost world near Teuchitlan, Jalisco
Alan McNairn - I am an inveterate traveler with a family. Thus I have to divide my time as a tourist between pursuing what I studied as a career in art ...
